Question

We just got a dalmatian and I have heard they are in the nonsporting group. Does this mean our dog won’t hunt? And how do you teach a dog to hunt?

Answer

No, it does not mean that the dog will not hunt; the name nonsporting is very misleading. There should be a new name for this Group 6 of the show groups.

Many dalmatians will hunt: they have a good nose although they hold their head rather high when hunting.

Originally they had some connection with the pointer thru ancestry in Spain about 300 years ago. lt is our belief that if they were trained greatly for outdoor work, they could develop into an excellent hunting breed as a Whole.

To teach a dog to hunt, that’s a big order. Of course, you have to take him out in the field and see what he can do of his own accord.

There must be a lot of work at home also in the way of commands and getting him to stop when ordered, to move left or right or come or go upon signal. All this is in a book and there have been about 500 books published on this subject during the last 50 years. 

Keep in mind that the dalmatian is a smart dog, and you must be smarter than the dog to teach him. So, look forward to a challenge from your spotted friend.

Q - We have a dalmatian. How can we tell whether it is a good specimen or not?

A - Get the official judging standard: it describes the perfect dog. Attend dog shows if you can. Contact show judges if available.

Q - We claim our mongrel dog is smarter than the pedigreed English Setter the next door neighbor owns. Who is right?

A - That’s not an answer I can offer. Smartness is conditioned not upon blood but on environment, training, supervision, opportunity to develop abilities. Each case is on its own merits.

Q - Do dogs have tonsilitis trouble?

A - Yes.

The miniature poodle, contrary to popular belief, is not a delicate or an ‘effete’ animal, In fact the miniature poodle is a wiry. sturdy, healthy dog, not prone to respiratory diseases or skin ailments.

Keeping them groomed and smart looking takes very little more time than keeping the average long-haired dog in good shape. Also, very important—the miniature poodle DOES NOT SHED, and has no doggy odor.

They were originally bred for and used as retrievers and water dogs, but through the centuries their hunting potentialities have not been fully exploited, although in England today miniature poodles are used for hunting small game birds.

They can learn anything because of their high intelligence and their spirit of co-operation, This of course has been proved by their marvelous records in obedience work as well as in their every day lives.

Owning a poodle is an unique experience. Every one I have ever owned has been a complete individual. It is really diflicult to fully describe their gaiety, gameness, their capacity for love and companionship. You have not lived until you have owned a miniature poodle.

The keeshond can range in size from l6 to 20 inches at the shoulder. The ears are erect and small, sharply pointed. The sharp foxlike face must show a good stop with a rounded rather slightly sloping brow. 

The body is short and compact, with the tail curling tightly over the back. The tail is plume like. white on top where it curls back. with a black tip. The flaring fluffy ‘britches‘ light and extending down the hind legs.

The legs and feet of the ideal keeshond are cream color, but not White; some penciling and shading is not considered a fault as would be a black or white foot, The eyes are small, dark and oblique.

But until you own, or rather are owned by a kees, you can not know the qualities that make up this long ago citizen of the Arctic. For all his travels, he has not lost the courage and steadfastness of character that was bred in him. and remains his heritage today. The disposition of the keeshond is even and quiet, and his training determines the dog. If you wish, you can make of him anything you desire. Some of the breed have been used in police work abroad; others have been successfully trained as guide dogs for the blind. Always you have a watch dog and an affectionate pet.

The keeshond is so easily trained that it is some times hard to convince people that in a day or two your kees will have learned a command respond perfectly.

When selecting your new Basset puppy, pick up the puppy several times and let his front legs come down naturally. Both legs should drop evenly with the feet turned moderately outward. He should come down firmly on his feet with no weakness in the wrists, and the elbows should fall in close to the body. Rock him from side to side on his front legs, and watch his elbows; the elbows should not pop out. The feet pads should be very thick, the toes close together. Avoid both the straight legged pup or the heavily crooked leg.

Look for a very heavy rear quarter with well bent stifle and hock joints, the hocks ‘well let down.’ Avoid the rear that is steep or seems stiff, this almost always being the predecessor to a stilted gait and a high rear. The hips should be broad, and when the rear quarter is set up the legs should be easily placed rather far apart and well behind the pup without the pup straining, losing his balance or hocking in.

Watching the puppy move will disclose many structural faults; therefore his gait should be carefully observed on a hard surface. His movement should be absolutely true viewed from all directions, and his gait should be free and easy. with the elbows lying close to the body.

lf his front legs cross over each other he is probably out at elbows. If he paddles with his front feet he is probably steep and loose in the shoulders.

Take a good look and make sure that each front leg moves with the same amount of crook as the other. A dog that is later to have one leg overly crooked or overly straight will usually display this when gaiting even at an early age.

Viewed from the side his topline should be perfectly level when he is in motion, even if he has a slight arch over the loins when he is standing naturally, (which is rather common in young pups).

Viewed from behind his legs should move parallel to each other with a comfortable width between them. The hocks should never turn inward or outward and the legs should show a free forward driving action. Beware of the pup who moves too close in the rear legs. This usually becomes more pronounced with age, whereas the pup that moves a little too wide behind very often becomes a superior mover later.

Regarding the more intangible characteristics, you want a pup who displays the typically sad basset expression but whose disposition is lively and responsive with the tail up and wagging.

ln general, extreme type on an un sound dog is of no value: likewise the dog of very superior construction that is completely lacking in basset type is of little more value. Therefore, pick the pup who shows the most typical breed characteristics consistent with good construction.

The Bedlington Terrier holds a rather unique place in the terrier group. He gives the appearance of being rather docile because of his resemblance to a lamb. This is far from time as ‘beds’ are used to hunt small game such as badgers, rabbits, fox, etc. In England they have even been trained to retrieve. They share to a great extent the heart and courage for which the terrier breeds are noted.

He differs from all the other terrier breeds in that he must be flat of rib and not rounded or barrel shaped. He is a streamlined dog, with deep brisket, roached back and galloping quarters. Another characteristic is that he does not shed, which can be an important factor in Lifhoosing a house pet.

Frequent combing and occasional trimming suffice to keep a Bedlington in good coat. He does not demand any more attention or care than most dogs, being strongly built and tending to be ruggedly healthy.

We have found them to be wonderful with children and good company around the house, lacking the usual nervous temperament of many terriers. An alert watchdog, the bedlington, is nevertheless friendly and manageable.

In the show ring ‘beds’ are gaining popularity each year. It is the hope that they will begin to get more and more show placings and move up from the ‘odd dog’ category.

Q—We are moving to a southern state and some of the family think we should not take the dog with us. Please advise.

A—Yes, he too is a member of the family and wants to be with you, wherever you go. To counteract any greater exposure to vermin, bugs, etc., brush dog frequently: use fine-screened netting for walls and top of his dog house.

Q—We are fearful of our dog being poisoned. What are some the symptoms.

A—They vary of course according to poison swallowed. In general, ears are held tight against neck…eyes become glassy, body stiffens. The main objective is to get the dog to vomit, then to be rushed to the veterinarian.

WHEN TO START

‘SOCIAL’ training should begin at the earliest possible stage. This is not to be confused with formal Obedience training but is getting the puppy used to everyday situations and to make it a member of the family in the truest sense of the word.

HOUSE-BREAKING

A puppy that comes from clean surroundings; i.e. where his mother has been kept free of parasites and well-groomed during and after pregnancy; where the whelping box has been kept spotless, already should have had the opportunity to use newspapers at weaning time when he was about three weeks old.

LEASH-TRAINING

Between two and three months is not too soon. To wait until the puppy is, say about six months, (will make it a trying chore, especially in a large breed.

CHEWING HABIT

This is not really a habit at all, but could become one. Although puppies are mischevious like small children, they rarely start on a determined chewing campaign till about four or five months. During this time the baby teeth generally fall out to make room for the permanent teeth.

FORMAL OBEDIENCE TRAINING

This may begin when the puppy is about six months old. From here on, according to the individual puppy; taking into consideration breed, size, mental and physical capabilities, serious training will benefit the owner as well as the puppy. The result will be a liveable adult dog and companion even if he never wins at an Obedience Trial.

METHOD:

‘SOCIAL’ training

In all phases of training every dog owner should remember the three P’s: PATIENCE — PERSEVERENCE — PRAISE. No amount of punishment will ever replace the value of these. Nor will the results be as rewarding. Think of your puppy as a piece of clay to be molded by YOU. Combine your human intelligence to go hand in hand with the puppy’s natural instincts. Be on the alert always how your puppy reacts to certain things and be very apprehensive of the fact that every puppy is individualistic just as we are.

HOUSE-BREAKING

When you introduce your puppy into your household, be sure there is one place where there are newspapers and the puppy must know that place. Then, when you have a few spare moments, let him come inside the other rooms to play, to be petted etc. Be sure to watch him. A puppy plays as hard as do children. When he is through — half-way through mostly — he has GOTTA GO. Put him outside, wait for him and use some words like: ‘Hurry Up —’ and then give lots of praise. Apply this same method after he wakes up from sleeping. After feeding it will take about ten minutes for a three months old puppy to eliminate. Put him out and wait — praise when he has performed. Be patient and lenient with the ‘mistakes’ your puppy will make.

LEASH-TRAINING

Contrary to most ideas that advocate leash-training a puppy in easy stages, I have found in 20 years of training all breeds that to do this lesson in ‘one go’ is much easier on the puppy — and you. Once you put on that collar and leash (never a harness) be sure that your puppy realizes what you want of him before you take it off. The secret here is to talk to him continuously, to praise him whether he turns somersaults or comes along less protestingly. But be sure the little fellow understands that the leash means a restriction to his liberty. It is not a punishment, but a way of life to be accepted. Therefore much praise, much petting, no matter what his gymnastics, are needed to give your puppy the confidence needed.

CHEWING HABIT

This is too a matter of vigilance on the part of the owner. Keep away all the chewable things you don’t intend to have chewed. Provide your puppy with toys of his own: keep him confined to an area while you are busy but where you can still talk to him. A firm NO every time you puppy latches on to a curtain, a plant and so on, will check him. Immediately give him one of his ‘chewable’ play· things, Impatience — as in all training — will do no more than fray your nerves and confuse the puppy.

FORMAL OBEDIENCE TRAINING

As you start on this phase of education, do not expect perfection all at once. Remember you still have a puppy here and let him feel his way into the more intricate exercises, By this I do not mean to let him get away with fault after fault, but be lenient, YOU must understand that your dog depends upon you alone to make HIM understand what you want of him. Training classes are excellent to acustom your dog to working with other dogs, especially if you intend entering him at Obedience Trials. In your home training, vary locales — noisy and quiet — but be WITH your dog; THINK with him. In all your training — from puppyhood into adulthood, remember that you start with a small creature with only his God-given sense of right and wrong. The rest will be up to you alone.